The front door is where most accessibility projects should start — and where most contractors don't think to look.
A universally designed interior doesn't help much if someone can't get into the house. The UDCP curriculum dedicates an entire chapter to exterior considerations because the approach to the home, the entry itself, and the transition from outside to inside are often the biggest barriers a person faces.
Start at the Street
Before you look at the door, look at the path to it. Is there an obstacle-free walkway from the parking area to the front entry? Is it wide enough for a wheelchair — at least 36 inches? Is the surface smooth and continuous, or does it have cracked concrete, uneven brick pavers, or gravel sections where wheels would sink?
Any obstacle greater than ½ inch in elevation is considered a tripping hazard and presents a barrier to wheeled devices — rolling walkers, wheelchairs, and baby strollers alike. Common outdoor culprits include raised concrete joints, settled pavers, tree root heaves, and the edge where a concrete walkway meets soft landscaping.
Landscaping can help or hurt. An overgrown tree that hides the entrance or address number is both a visual and physical barrier. But thoughtful landscaping works in your favor — the contrast between a lawn edge and a concrete walkway provides a visual cue for someone with moderate visual impairment, and the soft grass provides a sensory cue for someone using a cane.
Exterior lighting matters here too. Security lights along the path, well-lit stairs, and illuminated entry areas aren't just convenience — they're safety features, especially in Montana winters when ice and early darkness are factors.
The Entry Door
The same accessibility principles that apply to interior doors apply to exterior doors, with one addition: the threshold.
Standard exterior door thresholds include a weather seal that typically creates a bump of ½ inch to several inches. ADA-compliant thresholds are now available — smooth, no weather seal, and less than ½ inch at their highest point. These can sometimes be retrofitted to an existing door but are best ordered as part of a new pre-hung door, attached to the frame.
For an existing door with a threshold barrier between ½ inch and 4 inches, a rubber threshold ramp can be added inside or outside the door. If the user approaches the door at an angle (common when the walkway doesn't align straight-on with the door), choose a threshold ramp with sloped edges on the sides as well.
Door hardware matters. Lever-style locksets are easier to operate than round knobs for anyone with reduced grip strength. Lighted keypad locksets let someone unlock the door without managing a key — which becomes important when a person is juggling a cane, package, and purse in one hand while trying to get through the door. It's also a safety feature: a family member or emergency responder can enter without the homeowner needing to get to the door to unlock it from inside.
If space is tight inside the entry, consider an outswing exterior door. And if the home has a storm door, check whether the pneumatic closer brackets are narrowing the usable pass-through width. Storm door closers can also be a hazard for someone with balance issues — the door pushes against them while they're trying to manage their footing and their belongings.
A small but surprisingly useful detail: install a package shelf or leave space for a small table just outside the door. It serves as a landing pad for bags and boxes while the homeowner unlocks the door.
Covered Entries
If the entry doesn't have an overhead cover, adding an awning or roof extension is worth considering. Someone who needs more time to manage keys, operate a wheelchair, or navigate a walker shouldn't also have to do it in rain, snow, or ice. In a Bozeman winter, this is a safety issue, not a cosmetic one.
Zero-Step Entries
The ideal accessible entry has no steps at all. This can be achieved through grading — adjusting the ground slope so the walkway meets the entry floor at the same level — or through an integrated ramp that's designed as part of the landscape rather than bolted on as an afterthought.
When a ramp is necessary, the standard slope is 1:12 — for every inch of vertical rise, the ramp must extend 12 inches in length. This adds up quickly. A front porch that's 24 inches above grade requires a ramp that's at least 24 feet long. Evaluating the available space on the property against this formula is the first step in determining feasibility.
Building codes have specific rules for ramp dimensions: width, slope, landings at the top and bottom, and handrails. Graspable handrails on both sides (bilateral) should be 1¼ to 1½ inches in diameter. For stairs, the same bilateral handrail approach maximizes comfort and safety.
Permanent vs. Temporary Ramps
If the need is temporary — recovering from surgery, for example — modular aluminum ramps are engineered to meet ADA standards and assemble from bolt-together sections on adjustable legs. Building codes classify these as temporary structures, so they don't require underground footings. This is important because it reduces what needs to be restored to original condition after the ramp is removed.
Permanent wood-framed ramps are custom-built on site with concrete footings. They can incorporate design elements — matching the home's siding, integrating planters, using complementary railing materials — so the ramp reads as intentional architecture rather than an add-on.
The Garage Alternative
If the home has an attached garage, it may offer the simplest path to an accessible entry. The garage is already enclosed from weather, the floor is typically close to the house interior floor level, and the door from the garage into the house may only need minor threshold work to become fully accessible.
This isn't always the right answer — some clients prefer a front entry for independence, dignity, or practical reasons. But when the exterior front entry would require extensive grading, ramp construction, or threshold modification, the garage entry can provide an inexpensive and quick alternative.
Stairs When Stairs Are Necessary
Not every home can go fully step-free at every entrance. When stairs remain, several details make them safer.
The rise and run of each stair must closely match all other stairs in the same staircase — building codes require this, and it's especially important for people who have difficulty ascending stairs, because irregular step heights disrupt the body's rhythm and increase fall risk.
For clients who use a walker, "walker stairs" can be built within code: half-height risers (approximately 4 inches) with extra-deep treads (24 inches or more). Most unwheeled walkers can be lifted onto a 24-inch tread, letting the user step up into the walker and proceed to the next short step.
Handrails should be graspable on both sides. For higher decks and porches, building codes specify guard rail requirements and allow either a secondary graspable handrail mounted inside the guard rail, or a top rail profile that allows fingers to wrap around it.
Secondary Egress
Creating two ways to exit a house in case of emergency — preferably on opposite sides — is always a good idea. An outdoor deck or patio can serve as secondary egress with the simple addition of a ramp to an existing deck. Modifying the door threshold to create barrier-free access to the back yard simultaneously enhances quality of life and provides an emergency exit route.
Existing Deck Assessment
If you'll be connecting to an existing wood-framed deck, check its structural integrity before adding ramps or modifying the connection to the house. The NADRA (North American Deck and Railing Association) deck evaluation checklist is a good field reference for assessing ledger connections, post conditions, joist spacing, and railing integrity.
If you're thinking about how to make your home's entry more accessible — or if you want a professional assessment of your exterior approach — get in touch.
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